Dhaka

City of mosques, capital of rickshaws

Once the Mughal capital Jahangirnagar, now the national capital. Lalbagh Fort, Ahsan Manzil, the Star Mosque and Old Dhaka's biryani and bakarkhani define it.

Places to visit

• Lalbagh Fort — An unfinished 17th-century Mughal fort holding Pari Bibi's tomb, an audience hall and a mosque.
• Ahsan Manzil — The pink riverside palace of the Dhaka Nawabs on the Buriganga, now a museum.
• Star Mosque — An Armanitola mosque covered in star motifs made from broken china.
• Dhakeshwari Temple — An ancient temple linked to the city's name, known as the National Temple.
• Sadarghat — The country's busiest river port, where launches leave for the south.
• Bangladesh National Museum — The largest collection of the country's history, archaeology and art, at Shahbag.

Famous food

• Bakarkhani — Crisp, layered flatbread baked in a clay oven — Old Dhaka's breakfast with tea.
• Borhani — A spiced yoghurt and mint drink served with biryani.
• Chawkbazar iftar — Ramadan's historic iftar bazaar at Chawkbazar, famous for the mixed dish "boro baper polay khay".
• Kacchi biryani — Raw marinated mutton and fragrant rice slow-cooked together under seal — Old Dhaka's most famous dish.
• Nehari — Trotters simmered overnight into a rich stew, eaten at dawn with naan or paratha.